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图1:尼兹瓦古堡大门,其实很小,看,沙利姆一人就守住了。

 

图2:尼兹瓦古堡模型。

 

图3:尼兹瓦古堡是中东最大最宏伟的圆形城堡。

 

图4:古堡内部。

 

图5:古堡外面卖水罐的小摊。

 

图6:电视演绎阿曼人的老祖宗们如何取水。

 
图7:这是取水架上的齿轮和取水用的皮“桶”,更象皮口袋。

尼兹瓦在马斯喀特西南方,约2小时车程可抵达,是阿曼内陆最大的城市,公元6,7世纪时曾是阿曼的首都。 尼兹瓦古堡是唯一一个给了我们简介小册子的古堡,还是我们开口索要的,除了小册子的介绍,古堡内还有些简介牌,更让人惊喜的是,古堡内有电视录象播放一些远古中东人民的生活景象,如皮“桶”取水,做咖啡壶,燃烧乳香,收采香料,摘采椰枣,传统服饰,等等。古堡进门处左边有咖啡室,古堡外有阿曼集市,集市是阿曼式传统建筑,非常有特色,很值得一逛。

尼兹瓦古堡是中东最大的圆形城堡,阿曼最伟大的建筑作品之一,被视为阿曼历史和文化遗产的纪念碑。它共花费12年时间完成,1668年竣工,守卫着萨马耶勒峡谷通向内地的道路。 尼兹瓦城堡曾作为阿曼历史上许多任教长的总指挥部,建造得极为坚固,可以抵御猛烈的进攻。

城堡的设计十分注重细节,到处都布下隐蔽的陷井,传统的大门有几英寸厚,每个门上的过梁都有一条缝隙,守城的人们可以从上面往下面倒滚烫的蜂蜜,开水,或者热油,阻止攻城者破门而入。狭窄曲折的楼梯通向城堡的顶部,每个楼梯拐角处有一道将敌人引进歧途的门,用以迷惑进犯的敌人。。。

 

图8:巴赫拉古堡,是阿曼最古老的人文堡垒。

 

图9:巴赫拉古堡被联合国教科文组织(UNESCO)列为世界文化遗产。

 
图10:我们在去阿曼之前从朋友处得知,巴赫拉古堡目前不对外开放。明知不开放,还是要去吃那一顿闭门羹。

 

图11:贾布尔古堡(Jabrin Castle),是由17世纪时阿曼最强势力的领主所建(1670年)。

 

图12:贾布尔古堡一角。

 

图13:站在贾布尔古堡顶上。(右下角处是中庭,象中国老房子的天井。)

 

图14:贾布尔古堡中庭内部。

 

图15:贾布尔古堡厚重的大门。

 

图16:看指示就知道是啥地方了。

 
图17:昨天沙利姆一边开车一边打了好几通电话,终于约了今天去那个溶洞的时间,下午3点。看完三个古堡,时间太早,沙利姆就带我们在一些小村庄里瞎晃悠消磨进洞前的时间。这是某个不知名小村里看到的残垣断壁。

对于溶洞,我和老猫本来并没有特别的兴致去看,别说看过桂林佛山的溶洞,我想就是我老家的空山洞可能也会比这沙漠的溶洞好看。

前一天沙里姆就极力推荐,想想这个溶洞是海湾地区第一个开放给游客的溶洞,反正时间也充足,去看看这沙漠的溶洞也无妨。

记住:
星期一不开门。
门票:5.500RO,本地人才2.000RO 。

这个溶洞有个小故事。话说附近村庄一小男孩,有晚梦见不远的山里有个洞,洞内有一水塘,他看见有个人从水里走出来。。。,一九六几年的某天,他已长大成人,某天又想起小时候的那个梦,就自己去找那个洞,那塘水,结果大家都知道了。不过,值到1995~96年 政府才想开发,花了5年时间做地质分析评估,5年时间设计建造,2006年对外开放。

溶洞第一次对外开放的时间是2006年11月18日,是海湾地区的第一个对游客开放的溶洞,很偏僻。溶洞外面的接待大厅有很大的停车场,候车室,卫生间,厅内还有一个餐馆(Zajal Restaurant),一个礼品店(Karma Gift Shop),设施完善干净舒适。在那个礼品店我买了一本介绍阿曼的书,原价28 RO,只有最后一本样书了(那么多介绍阿曼的书,偏就看上这最后一本),自然没有新书看着顺眼,自然我就不想付原价,最后找到经理,以23 RO(约60美刀啊)买下,也还是贵哈,同时还花8 RO 买了一枚阿曼邮票小型张。

坐下图的专用火车约10分钟到达洞口,下车清点人数,专职导游带进洞内,洞内有水泥,金属的小路,小桥,台阶,从左边进去,导游一个景点一个景点的讲解,最后看溶洞内水塘里的一种粉红色吃雨水带进洞内微生物的小鱼(我睁大眼睛也没找到那水塘里的鱼,也许我老眼昏花吧),然后从右边出洞,一共有234级台阶,前后约1个小时,出洞后导游再次清点人数,等候坐专用小火车回到接待厅。

注意:
1。上专用火车之前一定要解决内急问题,火车和溶洞内都木有厕所!!!
2。溶洞内不能照相!

 

图18:坐这种窄窄的专用火车进洞。

 

图19:进Hoota Cave的专用小火车内部。

 

图20:晚上近8点才赶到马斯喀特的香格里拉,累了一天,洗洗后就去露天酒吧一人来一杯,哇,美好的一天用美酒结束了。

 
 
 
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